Pandanus
2002 Trip
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Pandanus Park, the veterans’ retreat is located on Kalpowar Station, north of Laura on Cape York Peninsular. Kalpowar Station extends north to Princess Charlotte Bay, Bathurst Heads and Bathurst Bay. My wife Jen, Mal Johnson (ex 104 Sigs, with whom I shared a tent back in the ‘Dat in 1969) and myself made the pilgrimage for this years’ Long Tan Service on the 18th of August at Pandanus.
There are two routes to Pandanus, once you depart Cairns. We chose to travel the short way up, via the Gulf Development Road up to Laura and then up into Lakefield National Park to Kalpowar Crossing. Once you cross the Normandy River you then proceed northwards to the old Kalpowar Station, now occupied by local aboriginal stockmen. Driving straight past the No Entry sign, you proceed along the southwestern side of the old Kalpowar Airstrip and onwards along the track until you reach the first official signage
Proceeding through that gateway you will eventually reach the river about 15Km
from the crossing, where you will find the makeshift HQ area, and from this
point north, along the riverbank, all the various campsites.
Being veterans, we like our solitude, and therefore most camps, other than the
obvious gatherings of various corps groups and the like, were well separated
from each other, stretching some 15Km up stream.
By the time we arrived on the 15th of August, the prime sites had been taken, so we crossed the river at the northern-most camp (Bill and his mates) and proceeded to wander onwards in the search for our own secluded campsite.
Eventually we settled upon a large billabong where we established "Jimmy's
Camp", some 7.4 Km south of the last crossing.
We set up camp and were later joined by Ian "Chips" Rafferty and his wife Cath who set up camp further up our lagoon. Chips was a platoon commander with 2 RAR 70-71.
They currently live in a utopian paradise on the Daintree, but are selling to move down here to the Sunshine Coast. We further enjoyed their company and hospitality on the southbound leg of our trip some four weeks later.
At 0630 on the 18th of August approximately 100 vets and many wives & family members assembled at the HQ area for our Long Tan service, MC’d by Dick Schafer.
The recently former mayor of Cook Shire, Graham Elmes was welcomed and gave a short address to the gathering both on the significance of the day and the place that he and a number of others are still working to have set aside for veterans - Pandanus Park. Les Hiddins spoke to the same theme and then the service concluded with a wreath being laid by our travelling companion, Mal Johnson, on behalf of the WA TPI Association.
Vets from all states of Australia made the trip for this occasion and many old friendships seemed to be renewed, along with many new ones formed. The service was filmed by a crew from the ABC and should be aired as part of the Australian Story program on the 7th of October 2002.
| Vietnam Veterans' Day 2002 - (L-R) Mal Johnson, Geoff Sanders, Fireant Dunn, Uncle Dick Schafer, Jock Kinder |
Kalpowar Station still has quite a number of cattle on it, and in Queensland, if you find a Clean-Skin beast, (unbranded live-stock) it is still legal to kill and butcher it for your own immediate consumption. Thus the Hunters went out prior to the 18th and located a suitable beast, which was then dressed by the Butcher who then visited all the camp sites up and down the river, delivering fresh meat to all. On the 18th, a large pot of stew was cooked up for the post service gathering at the HQ area.
All in all, Mal, Jen and I had a really relaxing time at Pandanus and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We would certainly encourage other veterans to make the trip with their wives and families, as there are abundant camp sites, good barra fishing, wild pigs to be hunted, if that is your particular bent, or simple peaceful solitude without screaming trail bikes and other yobbos beating up the bush in their 4wd's. Pandanus has no civilised features such as toilets or showers, but then, that is part of the beauty of the place. There is plenty of drinkable water, and for those unfortunate enough to run out of anything prematurely … it's a long drive for resupplies to Laura !
Geoff Sanders
Back to the Pandanus page
Also at 104 Sigs with some different pictures.