OPERATIONS ORDER OR CHECKLIST

The number of veterans who have made the pilgrimage to Pandanus Park is quite small and that’s a pity, for those who have not experienced this remarkable place have yet to take advantage of one of life’s unique healing experiences.

I spent three extraordinary weeks in this remote Cape York wilderness in the 2005 season and am full of praise for Pandanus Park. They were not lonely weeks, in fact one could almost state that the social life was too hectic, instead my stay was peaceful, relaxed, quiet and enjoyable beyond my wildest expectations. Pandanus gives vets a unique opportunity to seek the peace and solitude that many Vietnam veterans need. It is worth noting that at Pandanus Park solitude does not equate to loneliness.

Pandanus Park is Wilderness Therapy at its finest. An ideal retreat for those suffering depression, PTSD, home problems and even drinking problems. You are not hassled at Pandanus, nor is anything demanded of you.

This is a War Veterans Retreat with a certain indescribable ‘something’ that makes it very special, particularly for those of who suffer as a result of their war service. There was nothing to complain about, nothing to make one angry, no arguments, no bad news, no depressing moments, no crowds, bugger all noise, no politicians and no DVA. At Pandanus there seems to be nothing but good vibes. It is a temporary home to like-minded veterans - everyone is on the same wavelength be they Navy, Army or Air Force. It is impossible not to praise the place.

Now all this sounds great. Sounds like the ideal place to visit.

But where is Pandanus Park? What is at Pandanus Park? How do you get there? What facilities can you expect? What happens there? Is it safe? What do you need if you go there? How long do you go for and when should you go? What if you need help whilst in this remote locality? What about medications? These and many other questions are answered in the following paragraphs.

1. What is Pandanus Park? The simplest answer is nothing much in the material sense. Just a tract of land fronting the beautiful Normanby River within Kalpower Station. Pandanus Park is a very quiet, peaceful paradise in country not all that dissimilar to the training areas used by the Army prior to embarkation for Vietnam. Kalpower Station is huge though the vets occupy only a small section of it and co-exist with the local Aborigines (traditional owners) who are likely to be handed the property late in 2005. The traditional owners have indicated they do not have a problem with the vets camping on the station, in fact they alter their station operations to accommodate the vets desire to be there around Long Tan Day. Because Kalpower is ‘private property’ the area is not accessed by the general population (civvies) and is therefore kept in its natural state. The vets set-up camp anywhere along the Normanby River bank roughly centred on the headquarters area or on the banks of nearby Jacks Creek and, in a few instances, at Jacks Lakes some 20 kilometres into Kalpower Station. Most of the camping areas are accessed by a bush track running parallel to the river and Jacks Creek with the vast bulk of the camps located within 20 feet of the river frontage to take advantage of the views (spectacular) water access (unlimited) and fishing (excellent). A few opt for camps in the scrub to achieve that little extra solitude since Pandanus Park is a place to relax and get away from society. There is an RAP (Regimental Aid Post for the non-army types) and an area designated as the Headquarters (HQ). The camp sites to the north of the RAP are generally at or very close to water level. The further north the less accessible is both the river and the camps so these sites are generally occupied by the early arrivals and tend to be more remote. The sites to the south (further upstream past the HQ) are the most common and apart from a few near HQ are located on the higher part of the river bank some 20 to 30 feet from the water. The immediate river bank in these areas is very steep, almost vertical, so there is a real danger of falling in. But if you are careful you will have no problems. Beyond the vertical section the bank levels out to become quite flat, lightly timbered and clear of grass and creepies.

2. General Location. Pandanus Park is located on the banks of the crocodile infested Normanby River on what used to be Kalpower Station. Kalpower Station is across the river, east of the Lakefield National Park Ranger Station about 150 kilometres north west of Cooktown on Cape York Peninsula. The small patch occupied by the veteran’s camps covers around 15 kilometres of river frontage roughly centred on the HQ which is about 20 kilometres south east of Kalpower Crossing and the old homestead. A few vets camp elsewhere on the property but they are the exception. The HQ is at E14.94142o S144.30007o for those with a GPS unit.

3. Opening Period. Pandanus Park is accessible only during the tropical dry season – May/June to October. A small number of vets arrive in June or even earlier, departing at the end of August thus enjoying to the maximum the therapeutic value of Pandanus. However, most of the activity is centred on Long Tan Day - 18 August – with the majority arriving just a few days prior to August 18, then departing immediately after Long Tan Day. The ‘long-termers’ depart around the end of August or early September. The area is inaccessible in the wet season and prone to major flooding therefore year round occupation is not an option.

4. Road Access. Access is not complicated but it is rough. Firstly you need to reach Mareeba, inland from Cairns. From Mareeba north navigation is quite easy.

a. Sunshine Coast to Mareeba. Mareeba is about 2,100 kilometres from the Sunshine Coast following the inland route (less traffic and hassles) via Emerald and Charters Towers. To make the trip cheaper there are numerous free camp sites on this run. Some of these are at Cockscombe Camp (Vietnam Vets Camp) near Rockhampton (a small diversion), free camps at Gayndah, Mundubbera, Duaringa, Dululu, Fletcher Creek (42kms north of Charters Towers)), Archer Creek (28kms east of Mt Garnett) and the War Memorial Park at Rocky Creek just north of Atherton, plus numerous locations on the side of the outback roads.

b. Mareeba to Lakeland. Navigation from Mareeba is helped by the numerous painted red stripes replicating the three red stripes in the centre of your Vietnam Service Medal. These three stripes are everywhere. On the roads, the trees, road signs, bridges, rocks, buildings, power poles, gates, and just about anything that does not move. Just follow the stripes – you cannot miss them. There is free camping at Mt Molloy and then, about 15 kilometres after Mt Carbine, divert left onto the Hurricane Road leading to Karma Waters Road. Turn left at the first sign (at about ten kilometres) then cross the Mitchell River. Not quite so far north there is good camping on the McLeod River (either side). Both these rivers are croc free as they are way inland. Stop at the Mt Carbine pub which is owned by an ex RAAF’y (John) who does a hell of a lot for the vets at Pandanus. The BP servo at Mt Carbine is the last cheap fuel, if any fuel is cheap in this part of Australia. Mt Carbine Caravan Park is very helpful to vets and provides discount rates for those en-route to Pandanus. At the end of the bitumen is the sleepy hollow of Lakeland. The coffee house and adjacent Lakeland Caravan Park are both supporters of the vets with the caravan park giving discount rates to Vietnam Vets heading for Pandanus Park.

c. Lakeland to Lakefield National Park (Kalpower Crossing). Lakeland is the start of the rough stuff. The 63 kilometres of gravel road to Laura (the last fuel stop) is very rough. Corrugations, rocks, potholes and bulldust are endemic. Take it easy and drive with headlights on. Expect to meet road trains on this section – so slow down or pull off the road to let them pass as their dust will be blinding. Pulling over also saves your windscreen from being broken by flying rocks. After about 45 kilometres there is a very welcome ten kilometres stretch of bitumen, but don’t become complacent. At the end of this section the road again turns to worms for the short run into Laura. Continue through Laura township (population about 50) taking the right hand fork leading to New Laura and Lakefield National Park (Kalpower Crossing). This stretch of hell is about 100 kilometres, all dirt and with the first 40 kilometres extremely corrugated and dusty. Thereafter it smooths out a bit, but not much. As you approach Lakefield Ranger Station take the road signposted Kalpower Crossing (follow the three red stripes) ignoring the signs requiring a permit from the ranger station.

d. Kalpower Crossing to Pandanus Park. Cross the Endeavour River at Kalpower Crossing using the concrete causeway but slow down as the crossing may have water flowing over it depending on how wet the wet season has been and how early in the season you arrive. The water will not be deep and the causeway is concrete followed by a section of rock. Continue across the rocky river bed following the red stripes through the entrance gates to Kalpower Homestead. Wave to the local inhabitants, veer left to pass the workshop then turn hard right following the stripes across the cattle grid toward the airstrip. At the airstrip veer right and follow the track. Continue to follow the red stripes on the trees, gates, anthills, fences etc until you enter through a wooden gate frame next to a rundown cattle trough. Immediately ahead should be an Australian Flag and a Pandanus Park flag (three red stripes) flying from a large tree. Drive on, swing right along a fence then after about 18 kilometres from Kalpower Crossing you will arrive at the RAP (just over a steep creek crossing). Don’t expect a building, medic, doctor or nurse - just a cardboard sign. Continue on another couple of kilometres until you see HQ and the memorial on your right. Welcome! You are at Pandanus Park.

5. Vehicle. Ideally you need a four wheel drive because of the very rough roads. Conventional cars can make the journey as far as the HQ but they are not recommended.

6. Caravans, Camper Trailers and Boats. A small number of veterans take caravans. Most tow camper trailers with off-road vans and campers the preferred option. In 2005 I towed our brand new 17 foot off-road van driving very slowly, covering the extremely corrugated and pot-hole ridden 174 kms from Lakeland (end of the bitumen) to Pandanus in just over 6 hours. There were a number of other caravans at Pandanus and numerous camper trailers. No matter what you tow into Pandanus and indeed if you tow nothing the secret to a safe undamaged arrival is to drive slowly and at times extremely slowly. Many vets also tow their tinnies but a word of warning. Do not use your tinny as a truck. Overloading your tinny is inviting failure of the wheel bearings or axles.

7. On Arrival. The HQ complex has no buildings and no facilities. Apart from the War Memorial you will find a notice board, usually with no notices, and hanging from the adjacent tree a canvas map bag. In that bag is a visitors book which you must sign as this lets the ‘powers that be’ know you are at Pandanus. Feel free to read all the entries for you may discover a mate has signed in before you.

8. Command and Control. You will wait a long time to meet the Commanding Officer, Adjutant, RSM or the duty dog. There ain’t none. Pandanus is not run on military lines and has no command and control structure. We all had enough of that during our military service. Pandanus does however have a resident Sheriff (Des) who will guide you should you need advice and he will regularly check up on your well-being. If you cannot find Des, ask for guidance from anyone already camped at Pandanus Park.

9. Facilities. Pandanus Park is a wilderness retreat, not the Hilton! There is no orderly room, no guard room, no toilets, no parades, no barrack blocks and no formal campsites. You will need to set up your own facilities.

10. Camping. The unwritten rule is no camping within 200 to 300 metres of another camp or 70 metres either side of the HQ area. PLEASE NOTE: Most vets are at Pandanus to seek peace and solitude, particularly those who arrive well before Long Tan Day. They want to be alone with their thoughts. Therefore, if you can see the camp next to you, you are probably too close. For first-timers, camping is anywhere along the river bank from the RAP past HQ for the next 5 kilometres or so. Observing these limits you can camp anywhere. And when I say anywhere I mean anywhere, except at my camp! Camp sites are not marked. Simply pick a choice spot and setup your camp occupying as much space as you need and are prepared to look after. Unfortunately due to the swelling numbers in the week prior to Long Tan Day the camping area becomes a bit crowded and camps tend to become to each other. However, whilst this is a bugger, it is unavoidable and only for a short period. Despite the crowding, still try to give each other space. Camp set-ups vary from hootchies to palaces under canvas. The more prepared you are the more enjoyable your stay. There is no need to rough it.

11. Safety. Generally Pandanus is a very safe place. However there are a couple of points worth noting:

a. Falling into the River. As explained elsewhere (paragraph 24.) the river is home to numerous crocodiles. This, combined with the steep banks at the water line, makes falling into the water a significant health hazard. Clambering out of the water in a panic is never easy, usually creates splashing which of course attracts crocs and indicates you are a beast in distress. Crocodiles live on beasts in distress. Safety Rope: For safety you should make a rope with large and securely graspable knots along its length. This rope is then tied securely to a tree well clear of the water with the other end dangling well into the water. This rope (we hope) will help you escape in a hurry. Do not rely on swimming to the nearest tree. You won’t make it with legs intact. If you fall into the river – and it has happened – yell as loud as you can, do not panic or splash, and gently swim toward the nearest bank.

b. Getting Lost. If you stick to the tracks you won’t get lost. If however you become unsure of your position on mother earth, use the UHF to call for help.

c. Emergencies. If you need urgent help for any reason simply call on UHF Channel 1 or 3. All camps and vehicles should be fitted with a UHF radio.

d. First Aid. You should have a first aid kit for your own use. The RAP does not provide medical aid.

12. Program. Pandanus Park is informal. It is for veterans to rest and relax and have a dose of Wilderness Therapy, therefore nothing is compulsory. The only ‘organised’ events are as follows:

a. Long Tan Day. This is the only formal event. The Long Tan Day service is held at 0730hrs on 18 August each year followed by a free feed (a stew so ably prepared by the ladies) and an informal get together. Medals are worn on Long Tan Day. Dress is shorts or jeans. Take a chair and your liquid refreshments for use after the service.

b. Concerts. Far less formal are the couple of concerts held at the HQ site in the days leading up to Long Tan Day. These are free and held under starlight. Take a chair, nibblies and liquid refreshments. It can get cold so take a jumper.

c. RAP gathering. The RAP is at the dry creek crossing as you approach the HQ and camping areas. Don’t expect to see a medic in attendance. The RAP is ‘open’ from 1600hrs daily through to whenever the last drinker chooses to depart. Most filter away around sunset, in time to prepare dinner. The daily RAP gathering is an opportunity for vets to meet vets, renew old friendships, discuss the good times and tell the usual jokes. This is a time for light-hearted enjoyment. Importantly most, if not all of the vets at Pandanus, are there to escape the stresses of normal life therefore, for a variety of reasons, they choose not to discuss the bad times, nor to divulge their sufferings and they expect you to do likewise. There is no ‘poor bugger me’ syndrome. Life is too short for that. The RAP is about the good times.

13. Camp Visits. Unless signposted otherwise most vets are happy to have short visits by other vets. However, do not overstay your welcome as many vets, particularly those who stay a long time, are there for peace and time out on their own. All the vets I met appreciated a short visit, even those who were well hidden into the scrub. As a general rule however, those who have taken the trouble to camp in very remote parts or are well hidden in the scrub prefer to be left alone.

14. Water. The river water is drinkable and ideal for showers. However I recommend you boil the river water before you drink. Take water with you just in case you get jelly belly from the river water.

15. Fuel, food, and liquid refreshments. You will need to be totally self sufficient. The nearest fuel and supplies are at Laura some 100kms south over very rough roads or at Cooktown (200kms south-east) over even rougher roads. For the ‘long-termers’ there will usually be someone doing a resupply run to either town and they will buy limited resupplies for you. Likewise, if you are planning a trip to ‘civilisation’ do the right thing and let everyone know in case they need something. Despite the foregoing you should not rely on resupply runs and must expect to pay heaps for even the most basic of supplies. Pandanus Park is located in a very remote part of Australia where freight alone doubles the cost of anything.

Important note on Fuel: In previous years a refuel truck with diesel and petrol has arrived just prior to Long Tan Day. However, due the economies of scale this service was cancelled in 2005 and should not be relied upon in future years. Take all your fuel with you, please do not assume someone else will have fuel to spare to get you out of Pandanus Park.

16. Internal Travel. You should plan on a daily drive to and from the RAP plus various social visits within Pandanus so work on ten kilometres driving per day and plan this into your fuel calculations.

17. Toilet Pits. Toilet pits must be dug deep then marked as foul ground. Remember someone else may be back at your site next year and they don’t want to camp on top of your discarded darkies. Shower water, in fact dirty water of any sort must not spill into the river.

18. Rubbish. Obviously there is no rubbish collection and no bins. Therefore you MUST take out what you bring in. DO NOT place cans or tins or non-burnables in your fireplace as someone else will have to clean it up after you and that someone is usually the Sheriff. He will not be happy and has a long memory. Do not leave tissues lying around. If you use ‘em, burn ‘em. There is a rubbish tip at Laura - dump your rubbish there as you head south.

19. Clothing. Very casual is the go. Shorts, thongs, bare feet, T shirts, bare breasted (chested!) whatever you want. It is 28 degrees in the day and down to 13 degrees at night. Nights can be cooler due to the wind.

20. Camp fires. There is heaps of wood lying around and fires are permitted, preferably in a pit or scrape, but do not light fires where they can ignite the dry grass. The grass burns like the clappers and it isn’t our land so don’t burn it.

21. Communications.

(a) Within Pandanus. All camps must have a UHF radio on channel 1 or 3 for safety reasons. Channel 3 is reserved for general chatter between camps whilst channel 1 is for important announcements or emergencies. Remember, your nearest neighbour will not be within earshot should you need urgent help therefore you will need to call on the UHF network. This system ensures you have an extremely good, if not guaranteed chance of being heard since a large number of camps and vehicles will be monitoring the UHF frequency. Use absolute discretion in what you say over the radio. The locals have UHF as well and monitor all calls.

(b) Remote area travel. If you plan to drive anywhere else in Cape York whilst you are at Pandanus then you will need a HF radio or a satellite phone. Cape York is huge and extremely remote. Mobile phones, including CDMA do not work at Pandanus Park. Satellite phones or HF radiophone usually work but can be unreliable in the area. Do not expect others to let you use their sat phones or radiophones as these calls cost a fortune.

22. Medications and Medical Intervention. Bring ALL your medication needs with you. Urgent help (medical) is at least 4 hours away. Routine medical support is available at Cooktown but expect a two day trip. If you are having a crook time or need help then give a call on UHF or go to the nearest camp and ask for help. Seek help early, do not wait until you are desperate. Just about everyone else at Pandanus has suffered the same problems as you so they know what to expect and can help as required.

IMPORTANT: If you are undergoing any form of medical treatment or supervision please discuss your attendance at Pandanus Park with your Medical Practitioner and seek his/her guidance and if necessary provide them with this document.

23. Power Supply. Pandanus Park has yet to be connected to the national power grid so don’t expect 240 volts – or any volts for that matter. Be self sufficient. In 2005 every day was overcast and windy therefore solar panels did not work well and many vets had trouble keeping power to their fridges. The best option is a small generator (a quiet one please) and don’t forget the fuel for it. A mix of solar and genny is ideal.

24. Crocodiles. Pandanus Park ain’t Australia Zoo but one wonders if it is not an offshoot of it. The Normanby River and ALL the waterholes, no matter how shallow, are home to Estuarine Crocodiles. These are the crocs with broad snouts and big teeth. They tend to eat people as bar snacks. Be very conscious of crocodiles as the river is full of them and you are bound to see them cruising past your camp. Swimming is forbidden as is dangling one’s body parts in or very close to the water. Don’t become a creature of habit near the water as crocs are excellent stalkers. They have good memories and are prepared to wait for a feed. If you choose to camp right on the waters edge (many do) you will need a couple of lights to burn all night as a deterrent against crocs. Finally, and very important do not let your dog swim in the river or sleep near the river. Crocs love dogs!

Note: If the above does not convince you to stay clear of the water it is worth noting that a bloke paddling a canoe was tipped from his canoe and eaten by a croc just downstream of Pandanus a couple of days prior to Long Tan Day this year (2005).

25. Creepy Crawlies. Apart from the crocs there are virtually no creepy crawlies. Snakes are very rare, there are Dingos but they just wander by (don’t leave food out) and Des (the Sheriff) burns the grass each year to clear the vermin. Crows will nick some foods if they are stored in the open whilst the Green Ants will climb any ropes attached to trees.

26. Flags, Unit badges etc. Many camps have an Australian flag. Others have very innovative signs marking their patch and advertising the occupants. Use your initiative to mark your campsite and prepare a sign before you leave home. It is part of the therapy! Remember to take your sign back home with you. The area floods in the wet so leaving your sign behind only helps pollute the river

27. Rain. Apart from a few spits and passing showers this is the dry season when rain is highly unlikely.

28. Fishing. The river is an excellent fishing spot. There are bait fish, Barramundi, Eels, Catfish, Turtles and Snappydiles. I’m not an expert (all I caught was a turtle) but the successful fishermen were using 100lb line and number 6 hooks for Barramundi. Their lines were ‘set lines’ attached to a tree on the top of the river bank. They then had empty cans with a few rocks in them to act as a ‘rattle’ to warn that a very agitated Barramundi was attached to their line. A very long, strong gaff is needed to grab your Barra out of the river before the crocs take it from you. Yabbie pots will catch the local freshwater crays which can either be eaten or used for bait. Fishing from tinnies is permitted but beware of the crocs.

29. Touring. Pandanus Park is half way up Cape York Peninsula and ideally suited as a base for further exploration. Bathurst Heads (fishing, oysters and camping) and Cape Melville (ditto) are within 300 kilometres round trip. Cape York itself (Bamaga) is within striking range – 1,500kms round trip. However, if you plan to do the ‘Cape’ you must be fully prepared. This trip is not for the feint hearted and should be done with an accompanying vehicle unless you are an extremely experienced off-roader with ALL the recovery gear. Cooktown is worth a visit and is three day round trip from Pandanus

30. Aborigines. Kalpower Station is occupied by Aborigines with whom the vets have a great rapport. The Aborigines regularly drive through the camp area and usually muster at this time of the year. Within the coming twelve months, perhaps even by the end of 2005 most of the property is likely to handed over to the traditional owners. Should this occur then occupancy of Pandanus Park will be at the discretion of the Aboriginal owners which makes it even more essential that we respect the rights of the traditional owners and be extremely circumspect in what we say or do. Take particular care with comments over the UHF radio. The Aborigines also have UHF. DO NOT provide the Aborigines with any form of alcohol as much of Cape York is a ‘dry area’.

31. Eligibility to Camp at Pandanus Park. Pandanus Park is The War Veterans Retreat therefore it is open to ALL vets though most attendees are Vietnam War veterans. Obviously many vets require carers, those highly paid (27 cents per day) ladies on whom we rely so much, so wives and carers are also welcome. During the 2005 season over fifty ladies attended Pandanus, some camping for over three months with their husbands. Family groups are welcome but make sure your kids are aware of the danger of crocs, do not let them go wandering and do not let them make a lot of noise. PTSD vets are not ‘noisy kid’ friendly. Friends are also welcome for short stays, particularly those upon whom you rely for support.

For first timers the trip may seem daunting. Not knowing what to expect is always a challenge but with this guide I hope to have taken away the uncertainty for those want to visit Pandanus but are hesitant to do so.

40th Anniversary of the Battle of Long Tan. 2006 is the 40th anniversary of Long Tan and the hope is that the attendance at Pandanus Park will exceed the three to four hundred who have gathered in each of the past few years. Pandanus is open to ALL veterans, not just Vietnam vets, and therefore I urge as many vets as possible to make the pilgrimage. Be it for a week, a month or longer; you may rest assured you will benefit from the stay and enjoy your time there.

If you need to know more then please contact your local Vietnam Veterans drop-in centre or the Sunshine Coast Vietnam Veterans Association, Telephone: 07 5479 4552 during working hours.

Mark Fielding (ex 9 Squadron RAAF)
Sunshine Coast VVA